I got a little dawn patrol surf session this morning. Woke up about 4:45 (insomnia pays off sometimes) and texted Paul till he woke up. We hit the road shortly after 5:00 and were in the water around 5:30am. We surfed near the point at Jungmun with 3 South Africans that are great surfers and pretty nice guys. The break we were surfing was in about 3 feet of water over top of reef and lava rock. It's a little sketchy surfing in shallow water, knowing that if you mess up, you could have a rough landing, but it was worth it. 99% of the waves coming in were lefts, and I'm not too confident going in that direction, so it was definitely a good chance for me to improve my abilities. I only had a couple wipe-outs, that weren't too bad. One wave, I got close to sneaking into a mini-barrel because I had a late take-off, but the lip just threw over me quickly, and I kept going outside. I also had one of my best lefts ever. It ran for about 75 meters, shoulder high, making a connection onto another wave that was curling around the point and the entire time I could see through the wave to the grey/white/black coral and stone beneath. It was really gorgeous, and I feel so fortunate to be able to surf at such a beautiful spot with a good crowd. I watched the sunrise over the architecturally-stunning convention center, saw the haze burn off of the neighboring cliffs and Oreums (mini-volcanoes that dot the island) and surfed in crystal blue water. Does it get much better than that?
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MuggsJust a little journal about my life. Click 'Comments' or the Titles if you'd like to add anything. The words printed here are concepts. You must go through the experiences.
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